Berat and Gjirokastër Without a Car: Albania's Stone Cities

Berat, the "city of a thousand windows", and Gjirokastër, the "city of stone", are Albania's two UNESCO World Heritage towns. Both are easy to reach by bus from Tirana, and Gjirokastër fits neatly into a trip to Sarandë and the Riviera.

At a glance

Approximate times. Albanian bus schedules aren't published centrally and change by season, so confirm departures locally the day before.

Berat

Berat's white Ottoman houses climb the hillside above the Osum river, their many windows facing the valley. Walk through the Mangalem quarter, cross the old bridge to Gorica on the other bank, and climb to the castle (Kalaja), where people still live inside the walls. One full day is enough, but staying overnight lets you see the town lit up in the evening.

Gjirokastër

Gjirokastër's grey stone houses and roofs sit on a mountainside below a huge castle. Don't miss the old bazaar, the restored Ottoman tower houses such as the Zekate House, and the house that inspired the writer Ismail Kadare. A self-guided audio tour is a good way to hear the stories as you walk.

Wear good shoes: the cobbled streets are steep and slippery after rain.

Combining them with the coast

A classic loop from Kosovo: Prishtina → Tirana → Berat → Gjirokastër → Sarandë, then back up the coast through Himarë and Vlorë. On the way from Gjirokastër to Sarandë you pass close to the Blue Eye spring, a popular stop in summer. See the Albanian Riviera without a car for the coastal part.

From Kosovo

• Bus: Prishtina → Tirana first (see Prishtina to Tirana), then buses south from Tirana.
• Shared ride: both Berat and Gjirokastër are in the RruGO app. Search from your town, or ride to Tirana and continue by bus.

Tips

• Spring and autumn are ideal: pleasant temperatures and fewer visitors than in midsummer.
• Bring cash in lek. Smaller guesthouses and restaurants may not take cards.
• Buses leave mostly in the morning, so plan to move between towns early in the day.